Enrique Sánchez Gutiérrez is the student of the Europe-wide known renowned Spanish star chef, Ferran Adria. Enrique and his partner chef, David Miralles, were invited to Hungary by the Lucullus Friendship Society Gastronomy Club and the Trade Promotion Agency of Andalusia (Extenda) in June. Their aim is to show and bring closer to Hungarians the flavors and courses of Spanish and Andalusian cuisine.
The interesting point of the initiative is that by inviting the leading chef of the Grupo La Raza restaurant chain of Seville, Enrique Sánchez, Hungarian chefs and journalists got closer not only to traditional Andalusian flavors, but could also have an insight into the remarkably mysterious, unknown but all the more enjoyable and tasty world of molecular gastronomy.
Enrique and David played a ‘double game’: at the cooking show, held together with a press conference, they prepared a traditional ensaladilla (a traditional Andalusian dish with boiled eggs, carrot, potato and tuna fish – all mixed together and served with Spanish mayonnaise), followed by the ‘modern’ version of this dish: olive oil with pasta and lactolesa cream, forming little pasta towers.
“I respect and love traditional dishes, for instance, the ensaladilla that my grandmother prepared for me when I was a kid. However, partly due to my job, I am enthusiastic about dishes prepared with modern kitchen technology. I am dedicated to processes and substances of the future like liquid nitrogen and other chemical compounds.” Points out Enrique Sánchez after the cooking presentation. “Fifty years ago, biology was not present in the kitchen, yet. Now, it is. Biologists, chemists and analysts work along with us in the kitchen.
Enrique continues: “Molecular gastronomy, hmm… I don’t like this word. I would rather say the evolution of food. That’s how I can better grasp the gist of it.” In our restaurants, in the La Raza chain, there are traditional and evolutionary, in other words, modern courses. Usually, considering modern dishes, which are built on traditional foundations but changed, we add in brackets: ‘new concept’.
In Spain, modern, evolutionary gastronomy is just like any other piece of novelty. When people first encounter with these dishes on the menu, they order 2-3 traditional Spanish courses and one modern – just for trying. Then, this almost always changes. On the next occasion, they order three ‘new concept’ dishes and only one traditional. Guests like them very much, they enjoy the new concept.
And that’s exactly the primary aim of the restaurant. Customers like to enjoy themselves and if we can add to that with the food, the evening is going to be more cheerful, the overall impact will even be better. They can eat something that they cannot prepare at home in this format. This is a good reason why it is worth trying.
Personally, I also prefer modern cuisine to the traditional one. However, that could also depend on the situation. Sometimes when I’m at home, having a rest, watching TV or reading, I just make a simple, traditional meal. However, when I visit a restaurant, I definitely like to try special dishes.
(Read on: The molecules of the star chef at home – see at ’Related to the article’)
