Best of Budapest & Hungary

Olaszrizling (also called Welschriesling or Grasevina) is the most widely planted white variety in Hungary. It owes its popularity mainly for the fact that following the devastation of the phylloxera blight at the end of the 19th century, many winemakers decided to replant their vineyards with Olaszrizling because of its reliability. Consequently there are quite a few winemakers all over Hungary who attribute special significance to the variety.

However it is around Lake Balaton, especially on the Northern shore, that Olaszrizling gets the attention it really deserves. It may sound paradox, but one of the contributing factors to its popularity is the fact that Olaszrizling has a neutral aroma profile. With no dominant fragrance or flavors the wines made from this variety are better suited to reflect the subtle differences in the character of the vineyards. And on the Northern side of Balaton there is no lack of geographical diversity, just think of the Csopak hills with their limestone soils and proximity to the lake, the volcanic basalt soil of Badacsony or the special microclimate of the Káli Basin.

Olaszrizling is now the flagship variety of the Balaton region, as is well demonstrated by ‘BalatonBor’ the joint brand of two associations: Balatoni Kör and Rizling Generáció. The salient point being that a number of wineries have decided to bottle their wines under the same brand and same image adhering to a common style. These 100% Olaszrizlings should be pleasantly drinkable but far from insubstantial. The wines have to pass a blind test by an assembly made up of the winemakers themselves and the best are introduced on the market by the end of the following spring.

Different Styles

It is still a widely shared misconception that certain varieties are suited only to produce a certain type of wine. In reality, the choice of wine style depends on conscious decisions both by viticulturists and winemakers. Of course there are some varieties which show limited diversity when vinified – for example, Irsai Olivér or Cabernet Sauvignon – however, there are others with much wider stylistic repertoires. Olaszrizling belongs to this latter category. If it is intended for a lighter style – as in the case of BalatonBor – there are two crucial factors to be considered: preserving acidity to provide drive and preserving the aromas and flavors inherent in the grapes. In both respects it is vital to choose the right time to harvest. During the ripening process the increase of sugar concentration occurs just as rapid as the decrease of acidity. If the goal is a fresh wine with low alcohol, it is particularly important to carefully monitor and control both processes. However, if the goal is a weightier, more substantial style of wine, the grapes should get a longer hanging time to receive more sunshine and to achieve higher levels of ripeness. Wines made to conform to these expectations will receive longer ageing in both the cellar and the bottle and may even spend some time in oak barrels. These more substantial Olaszrizlings can convey the character of their unique terroirs and stand up to mature cheese or meat dishes served on summer nights.