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Food traditions in the Carnival season
Pressed pork with quince, lamb with lentil sauce, pork roll with potato cream – according to László Fazekas, chef of Arcade Bistro, the keyword of the carnival menu is modernisation. Everybody has already cooked Carnival dishes at home, so traditional ‘magyar’ food is difficult to prepare in a gourmet restaurant. According to Arcade Bistro chef László Fazekas, ‘difficult but not impossible’.
Enikő M. Tóth
Best of Budapest online | January 26, 2010

‘The sprees after Twelfth-night are traditionally straining for the stomach. Similarly to New Year’s Eve, heavy dishes are characteristic to this period.” – tells László Fazekas about the Hungarian customs. These dishes, sauerkraut, pork, mangalica, duck, and goose are characteristic for the whole region of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. ‘Jellies, aspics, pig-sticking, black pudding and liverwurst are commonly prepared at winter’s time in this aera, similarly to the different types of doughnut. Having a look at kitchens of the other nations, we can find heavy winter dishes as well. Italian, Spanish or South-French cuisine have some similarities with the Hungarian too. However, most of our dishes are the inventions of Vienna, Prague or Budapest chefs, so other analogies refer to a rather loose relationship.’

In Hungary, the Balls do not have a gastronomic tradition of quality, these are the families, who still cook these general dishes. The chef of Arcade Bistro underlines the usage of those fresh materials, which are available in winter as well. ‘In Arcade, we are supposed that these dishes, prepared in the right way, with a bit of homey tastes, cope with the similar cuisines of the countries with stronger traditions.’

Arcade Bistro does not plan to offer a special Carnival menu, however, as László Fazekas says, their peculiarities are going to follow the traditions. The most characteristic to the dishes of Arcade is the usage of high quality and Hungarian materials.

László Fazekas, chef of Arcade Bistro
That is the guarantee of high standard and makes the dishes to fit to the supply of a restaurant of international grade.
The new dishes, represented on the menu, refer to the past New Year’s Eve period. They are available for only one or two weeks. I have chosen rather heavy dishes, in order to give a bit of relaxation for the stomachs and time to prepare them, after or before the nights of high jinks.

From the February supply of Arcade Bistro

Pork with almond mustard noodle
Milky lamb with sweet bay sauce
Orange-chocolate doughnut English-cream (heavy, buttery, with vanilla taste)


And a special offer for a Starter for the Carnival season in Arcade:
Numbed squealer with wasabi green apple puree
(see the illustration above)

Beside the tastes, the starter gets its specialness from the fact, that the 6 kg squealer is from Zala and the elderly owner delivers it specially for us, we do not buy it from a piggery.

Preparation:
• For first I cook the meat as I would make a jelly. The only difference is that I add peculiar spices and fruits.
• When it gets downy, I take it out of the liquor, press it with the boiled fruit-concentrate, literally the pectin of the fruits.
• After it gets numb, I slice it and it is ready to be served.
• Green apple puree with wasabi, a few drops of 12-years-old balm-vinegar and homey peanut grissini are offered as garnish.

   
 
 
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